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Used Electric Guitar Testing Guide 2026

Essential testing guide for Fender, Gibson, PRS, and all electric guitars

Introduction: Finding Your Perfect Guitar

Electric guitars hold their value remarkably well, and the used market offers incredible opportunities. A well-maintained 20-year-old Fender or Gibson can play as well as—or better than—a new instrument. Quality craftsmanship, aged tonewoods, and broken-in electronics often make vintage and used guitars more desirable than their new counterparts.

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However, guitars are complex instruments with many potential issues. Warped necks, worn frets, faulty electronics, and hidden damage can turn a seemingly good deal into an expensive repair project. Unlike mass-produced electronics, each guitar is unique—what works on one instrument may not work on another.

This guide covers everything from neck relief measurement to pickup testing. You'll learn to spot red flags, evaluate playability, and negotiate fair prices based on actual condition. Whether you're buying your first guitar or adding to a collection, these testing procedures will help you find an instrument that inspires you for years.

Visual Inspection

Body Condition

Examine the body for cracks, chips, and finish checking (fine cracks in lacquer). Light wear and "relic" marks are cosmetic; structural cracks near the neck joint or bridge are serious concerns. Check for signs of refinishing—overspray, orange peel texture, or finish that doesn't match the headstock.

Neck Joint

The neck joint is critical. For bolt-on necks, check that screws are tight and the neck sits flush in the pocket. For set necks (Gibson style), look for cracks or separation at the joint. Neck resets are expensive repairs—any looseness is a red flag.

Warning Signs:

Headstock repairs (common on Gibson-style guitars), body cracks near the neck pocket, or evidence of major refinishing can significantly affect value. Ask about the guitar's history and any repairs.

Headstock Check

Examine the headstock for cracks, especially at the back where the neck transitions to the headstock (common break point on angled headstocks). Repaired headstock breaks often show finish lines or slight misalignment. Even good repairs reduce value by 40-60%.

Neck Testing

Neck Relief Check

Hold down the low E string at the first fret and the last fret simultaneously. Look at the gap between the string and the 8th fret. There should be a small gap (about the thickness of a business card). Too much gap indicates excessive relief; no gap suggests a backbow.

Neck Conditions:

  • Proper relief: Slight forward bow, ~0.010" at 8th fret
  • Too much relief: High action, difficult to play, often adjustable
  • Backbow: Strings buzz everywhere, may need professional work
  • Twist: Uneven relief across the fretboard, serious issue

Truss Rod Function

Ask the seller to demonstrate truss rod adjustment, or carefully test it yourself. The nut should turn with reasonable force. A stuck truss rod is a major problem; a stripped truss rod is catastrophic. Never force a truss rod that won't move.

Neck Straightness

Sight down the neck from the headstock toward the body. The fretboard should appear straight or with slight relief. Obvious curves, humps, or twists indicate neck problems that may be unfixable. Compare both edges of the fretboard.

Fret Condition

Fret Wear

Examine frets in playing position areas (first five frets, especially under the wound strings). Light grooves are normal wear; deep divots or flat spots require fret leveling or replacement. Run your finger along the fret tops—they should feel uniformly rounded.

Fret Sprout

Check the fret ends at both edges of the neck. Frets should be flush with the fretboard edges or slightly beveled. Sharp, protruding fret ends (fret sprout) indicate the wood has shrunk from humidity changes. This is fixable but indicates the guitar may have been poorly stored.

Fret Level

Use a straight edge or credit card across groups of frets. All frets should be level. High frets cause buzzing on adjacent frets; this requires professional leveling. Some high frets are acceptable on budget guitars but not on premium instruments.

Refret Costs:

Fret leveling: $75-150 | Partial refret: $150-300 | Full refret: $300-500+. Factor these into your offer if frets show significant wear.

Electronics Testing

Pickup Testing

Plug into an amp and test each pickup position. All should produce clear, strong signal without excessive hum or noise. Tap each pickup pole piece with a screwdriver—you should hear a distinct click through the amp. Dead or weak pickups need replacement.

Selector Switch

Cycle through all switch positions multiple times. Each position should click positively and produce consistent sound. Scratchy sounds when switching or intermittent cutouts indicate worn switch contacts—usually a $20-50 fix.

Potentiometers (Knobs)

Turn each volume and tone knob through its full range while playing. Listen for scratchy sounds or volume jumps—signs of dirty or worn pots. Spray-cleaning can fix minor issues; severe problems require pot replacement.

Output Jack

Wiggle the cable at the output jack while playing. Any crackling or cutouts indicate a loose or worn jack. This is a common and inexpensive repair but annoying if not addressed.

Hardware Inspection

Tuning Machines

Turn each tuner through its range. They should feel smooth without binding or excessive play. Loose tuners cause tuning instability. Check that all mounting screws are present and tight. Replacement tuners are available but change the guitar's character.

Bridge and Saddles

Examine the bridge for corrosion, stripped screws, or damage. Saddles should adjust smoothly for height and intonation. On Floyd Rose or floating tremolo systems, check knife edges for wear—worn edges cause tuning problems and are expensive to fix.

Nut Condition

Check the nut slots for proper depth and spacing. Strings should sit in slots without binding but shouldn't be too deep. A properly cut nut is crucial for tuning stability and playability. Nut replacement is inexpensive but requires proper setup.

Tremolo System

If equipped, test the tremolo through its full range. It should return to pitch after use. On floating tremolos, check spring tension and knife edge condition. Floyd Rose systems require specific maintenance knowledge.

Playability Testing

Action Height

Play every fret on every string. Action should feel comfortable without excessive buzzing. High action can usually be lowered; very low action with buzz may indicate neck or fret issues. Standard action is about 4/64" on bass side, 3/64" on treble at the 12th fret.

Intonation Check

Compare the 12th fret harmonic to the fretted note. They should match. Slightly sharp or flat is adjustable; wildly off intonation may indicate neck issues or improper setup. Bring a tuner or tuner app for accurate assessment.

Dead Spots

Play up the neck listening for notes that die quickly or sound weak. Some guitars have "dead spots" where notes don't sustain. This is often a design characteristic rather than a defect, but severe dead spots affect playability.

Neck Profile Comfort

Play the guitar for at least 10-15 minutes. The neck profile should feel comfortable for your hand size and playing style. C, D, V, and asymmetrical profiles all have devotees—there's no "right" answer, only what works for you.

Amplifier Testing

Clean Tone Test

Play through a clean amp channel. The guitar's true voice is most apparent clean. Listen for clarity, note definition, and tonal balance. Muddy, thin, or unbalanced clean tones may indicate pickup or wiring issues.

Overdrive Test

With gain or overdrive, test for microphonic feedback (squealing at moderate volumes). Some microphonics are normal; excessive feedback indicates wax-potted pickups have failed or the guitar has loose components.

Noise Testing

Single-coil pickups naturally hum; humbuckers should be quiet. Excessive noise in any pickup position may indicate shielding problems or failing electronics. Compare to similar guitars if possible.

Quick Testing Checklist

Used Electric Guitar Pricing Guide

Category Fair Used Price Examples
Entry Level $100-250 Squier, Epiphone, Ibanez GIO
Mid-Range $300-600 MIM Fender, Epiphone Pro, PRS SE
Professional $700-1,500 Fender American, Gibson Studio
Premium $1,500-3,000 Gibson Standard, PRS Core, Fender Ultra
Vintage/Custom $3,000+ Pre-CBS Fender, 50s-60s Gibson, Custom Shop

Negotiation Factors

  • Fret wear: Deduct $100-400 depending on severity
  • Headstock repair: Deduct 40-60% of value
  • Missing case: Deduct $50-150
  • Non-original parts: Deduct 10-30%
  • Electronics issues: Deduct $50-150
  • Original case + candy: Adds 5-15% value

Final Verdict: Should You Buy?

Buy It If:

  • • Neck is straight and adjustable
  • • Frets have life remaining
  • • Electronics work properly
  • • No structural damage
  • • Feels right in your hands

Negotiate If:

  • • Moderate fret wear
  • • Needs setup work
  • • Scratchy electronics
  • • Cosmetic damage
  • • Missing accessories

Walk Away If:

  • • Twisted or damaged neck
  • • Stripped truss rod
  • • Headstock crack/repair
  • • Dead pickups
  • • Doesn't feel right

Expert Tip: Trust Your Hands

Specifications, brand names, and prices matter, but the ultimate test is how a guitar feels and sounds to you. Some budget guitars play better than premium instruments; some expensive guitars don't suit certain players. Spend time playing the guitar before focusing on technical evaluation. If it doesn't inspire you to play, all the specifications in the world don't matter.